🔗 Share this article

Whenever curating a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate well-known high-end venues. Yet, nestled high among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

The compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m utterly astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s dedication that led to their humble restaurant achieving such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the food, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s success is set to echo beyond its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this gastronomic triumph.